Sunday, March 14, 2010

Italy -- The Vatican

WOW!



The Vatican is, by far, the single most impressive structure I have ever seen (as it was designed to be). The Piazza San Pietro, with it sweeping cononnades, was created by Bernini. The Piazza was designed to be a place for the Christians of the world. The end of the Piazza was left open, because there is always room for more of the faithful. The centre of the Piazza is adorned with an obelisk, brought to Rome from Heliopolis by Caligula. The Piazza is definately impressive.



The Vatican Museums are huge, and take some time to explore. The Vatican has "aquired" phenomenal treasures, statues and paintings from around the globe. There was one long corridor, lined with both Greek and Roman statues and sculptures on both sides, that seemed be about a half a kilometer long. The Throne of Ramses II can be found in the Egyptian collection.

As with every other part of the Vatican, the museums are impressive. Rarely is a spot left undecorated. Even the ceilings contain amazing woodwork and paintings.




Of course, the Sistine Chapel is the crowning glory of the museums. Photos are not allowed within the Chapel; Swiss Guards are quick to remind people. Michaelangelo's ceiling frescos, and his Last Supper are amazing. Even a non-religious person like myself can appriciate the skill and effort that went into their creation. Despite the warnings of "no photos" I still took a couple (I'm probably going to Hell!). For those looking to get a few illegal pictures, turn off the flash, set your timer, and lay your camera down.




Below St. Peter's Basilica are the Vatican Grottoes, where some many popes are buried. Each of the sarcophagi has an image of the pope on the cover. Very cool. I would like to have that when I die. Another cool thing is that you exit into the Basilica, near Bernini's Baldacchino.

The interior of the Basilica can hardly be put into words. It was created to awe, and it does. The floor is made from several types of marble, the ceiling is a massive mosaic, and the artwork is the work of masters. The Basilica is huge (it can hold 60,000 people), but every square inch is a work of art. It is said that the Basilica can hold 4 football fields and is rumored to have around 10,000 square meters of mosaics. WOW!






The top of the dome (119 meters) can be reached by, stairs to the base of the dome, then a short curving corridor takes you to the tightest spiral staircase you have ever seen. I had to scrunch my shoulders to be able to navigate the staircase (check out the pictures below). What a view!




To summarize, the Vatican is amazing, outstanding, phenomenal, incredible, etc. Definitely worth a visit. Allow yourself at least a half day to check it out.

Italy -- Rome

Awesome! I loved Rome. It has it all: ancient sites, incredible churches, great art, good food, good wine, and the Vatican.

My stay in Rome started out on a good note when I checked in to my dorm room at Colors Hostel, a 10 minute walk from the Vatican. Colors was clean, and well run, and I enjoyed my stay. They have no curfew, and a fully equipped kitchen.

As a history buff, I was totally stoked to explore Rome. The first thing I did after checking in (in the late afternoon), was to take a peek at the Vatican. It was awesome (I'll talk about the Vatican in a separate post). I then moved towards Castel Sant'Angelo, and crossed Pont Sant'Angelo a fantastic bridge covered with figures of angels sculpted by Bernini and his students.

From there I made my way to Piazza Navona, which features Bernini's master piece, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (the Fountain of the Four Rivers). The Piazza is a busy place in the evening, with many good restaurants, and buskers.

My journey continued along to Il Vittoriano a huge structure near the centre of Rome, passing several churches along the way. From the top of Il Vittoriano, you get fantastic views of the Roman Forum.

From here I took Via dei Fori Imperiali. The road slowly rose, and when I got to the highest part, I was looking down at the Colosseum. I must have stood there for 10 minutes just staring, and trying to fix the image in my mind. The Colosseum is an amazing structure when seen in daylight, but when lit up at night it is INCREDIBLE! I think I spent an hour walking around the outside of the Colosseum, taking it in, and taking pictures from every conceivable angle. Phenomenal! Day one in Rome couldn't have gone better.



Later that night, after returning to my hostel, I started reviewing my pictures, and found that it was impossible to hold a camera completely steady. All of my night pictures were a bit blurry. I had even tried holding my camera against a light post to steady it. Two things crossed my mind; one, I had to find a way to steady my camera, and two, I had to go back again at night and retake all of those pictures. The second part wasn't really much of a hardship. The next day, I found a person selling camera stands at Pont Sant'Angelo. I got one for 7 Euro. It has been the best 7 Euro I have ever spent. From that point on, all of my night shots have turned out perfect.

Day two in Rome. I decided to tour the exterior of the Vatican (I was meeting a friend later and promised to the do the Vatican then). The Vatican is the single most impressive structure I have ever seen (as it was designed to be).

I made my way over the the Pantheon. Very cool building. All of the marble work done inside is amazing. The masonary dome is the largest ever built. It is a truly incredible piece of architecture. The biggest let down with the Pantheon, is that when you exit, across the Piazza, there is a McDonalds. That just shouldn't be allowed!



From the Pantheon, I strolled over the Trevi Fountain and had a gelato. The fountain portrays Neptune's chariot being pulled by Tritons and sea horses. After enjoying my gelato, it was time to head to the Roman Forum.

I started by passing through the Arch of Settimio Severo. An impressive bit or architecture. I know I'm repeating myself, but the Roman architecture is awesome. Give yourself at least a couple of hours to wander around the site, including Palatine Hill. My walk through concluded with passing under the Arch of Titus. Next stop, the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is an architectural and engineering marvel. It could seat 50,000 people, had three levels below ground, and could be flooded for mock navel battles. Wow! The inauguration of the Colosseum lasted 100 days, and saw 5,000 animals killed. The Emperor Trajan once hosted games that lasted 117 days, and saw 9,000 gladiators fight to the death. Again, wow! Sitting there I could imagine gladiators fighting to the death against wild animals or other gladiators; or Christians being torn apart by wild animals or burned alive.



Later that night, I made my way to the Vatican, Pantheon, and Colosseum to take my night shots. Day two in Rome -- pretty awesome!

Day three in Rome. Went for a picnic with some girls that I met at the hostel. We toured Castel Sant'Angelo, and walked down to the Roman Forum where we had our lunch. Hiked over to the Trevi Fountain and had some gelato. Later went out for supper. After dinner, we made our way to the Spanish Steps. Day three in Rome -- still good.

Day four in Rome I spent checking out some impressive churches, the Crypta Balbi, and some catacombs.

To summarize my stay in Rome -- AWESOME. I liked the Colors Hostel, loved exploring the Churches and ancient sites. Good food. Good wine. Would love to go back again.

Greece -- Paros and Naxos

Paros

I visited Paros on my first trip to Greece, and was new at backpacking. I stayed on Paros for 3 days, but can't recall anything spectacular about the island. I do recall that I thought it would be a great idea to rent a bicycle and tour around the island. Bad choice. The main road around the island is about 3 km inland and up hill. Visiting little seaside towns was great, but cycling back up to the main road sucked. By noon I had returned the bike and rented a scooter. Way better way to see the island!

Naxos

Naxos has some interestings sites, such as the Temple of Apollo, the huge Kouros statues near the village of Apollonas and some nice beaches. However, much like Paros, the island didn't really do it for me. Again, a scooter is a great way to get around the island.


Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Greece -- Rhodes


Rhodes was the ancient home of the Knights of St. John, and a current World Heritage Site. The old town, surrounded by massive stone walls, is a mix of ancient architecture. The narrow winding lanes make getting lost a fun prospect.

The castle, Palace of the Grand Masters, is awesome. The building is in great shape, and has all of the cool castle features, such as a moat, crenellations, arrow loops, and bartizans. The castle has been converted to a museum, and houses some beautiful sculptures and mosaics.





The new town has lots of things to see and do. There are tennis courts at many of the larger hotels, an aquarium, beaches, and diving.

Rhodes is the largest of the Dodecanese islands. If you want to see much of the island, rent a scooter or car. I chose the mighty scooter. There are some good beaches down the east coast of the island. The town of Lindos is definately worth a visit (about 500,000 other tourist per year agree too). The town of Lindos is at the foot of the Acropolis. The Acropolis has an spectacular view of the harbour.

Although I spent 5 days on Rhodes, I really don't recall being awed by the island. It is definately worth a stop, and maybe I should go back and give it another try.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Greece -- Santorini

Santorini is where the Gods go when they get tired of Mount Olympus. Santorini has it all: red sand, white sand and black sand beaches, stunning views, volcanic activity, wineries and amazing sunsets.

The ferry from Athens usually arrives at Santorini in the early morning (8am ish). The first impression of Santorini is of the little white washed houses clinging to the edge of the cliffs. Cliffs that were formed from one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history. Breath taking!



Hotel, hostel, and domatia owners all greet the ferry. I like staying at Hostel Anna in Perissa, near the black sand beach. They have all kinds of accommodations: 20 bed, 10 bed, 6 bed dorm rooms as well as private rooms. They are a five minute walk to the black sand beach, and have a little grocery store just down the road that sells cheap wine right from the keg. There is also a nice common area where people hang out and chat.

Santorini has many beach options. You can opt for red, white or black sand. Red beach is interesting, but pretty small and usually crowded. The white sand beaches are good, but I prefer the black sand. Warning, the black sand gets smoking hot! You need a mat to lay on, or rent a lounge chair and umbrella. The sand gets so hot, that when it's time to splash around, I sprint for the water.

Just about everybody who visits Santorini ends up doing the volcanic tour. I've done it twice. The tour starts from Fira's excursion boat port, which can be reached by stairs, cable car or donkey. I recommend the cable car down and the donkey for the return trip.

The trip takes you to some sulphuric hot springs at Palia Kameni; then to the volcanic island of Nea Kameni, where you get to see thermal vents; off to Thirasia for lunch where you can dine at a restaurant that extends over the water, or up at cliff top diner over looking the ocean; and if you wish, you can be dropped off at Oia, or return to Fira.





The town of Fira is fun to explore. The winding little alleyways are easy to get lost in, but that is part of the fun. There are lots of cute little shops, and some good restaurants and pubs. A little diner, just south of the main square, makes the best gyros I've tasted. From the upper sections of town the views of the ocean and islands are outstanding.

The little village of Oia on the north side of the island is known for sunsets. Be sure to get there early, because it gets really crowded as sunset approaches. After sunset everyone tries to fight their way on to a bus heading back to Fira (there is a lot of pushing to try to get on a bus).



To sum things up: Santorini is awesome; Hostel Anna is a great place to stay; black sand beaches are really cool; volcanic tour good; and sunsets at Oia are phenomenal.

Friday, March 5, 2010

Greece -- Ios & Mykonos

Ios

Tan, party, repeat. Welcome to Ios. Apart from some beautiful beaches and beautiful women, there is not a lot to see on Ios.

Ios is the party island of Greece, and Far Out Camping at Milopotas beach is where to stay. It has all levels of accommodation, from tents, to kennels, to normal style rooms. My friend and I rented a double kennel. It had two small cots, and my outstretched arms almost touched both walls. Who cares! I didn't come to Ios to catch up on my sleep. When I wasn't tanning on the beach or by the pool, I was out drinking. I didn't sleep in the kennel so much as I passed out. If I needed sleep, I found a lounge chair and a sun umbrella and caught a few zzz's.

During my conscious daytime hours, when I wasn't laying by the pool or on the beach, I took advantage of the basketball court and beach volleyball. Around 4 pm the music would start up, and people would start dancing around the pool. That's how memorable evenings started. How they ended, well...

One day I went into town, and met up with a Canadian guy who was promoting a pub crawl. What the Hell. About 200 people started out at 8pm. Several drinking games, and 5 pubs later it was 3am, and I was wondering how long it would take to walk home. An epic night!

Mykonos

(Below) Mykonos town and Paradise Beach



Change Far Out Camping to Paradise Beach Camping. Everything else is the same!

(above) This is how I spent my days on Ios and Mykonos. Time well wasted!



Thursday, March 4, 2010

Greece -- Paxi, Anti Paxi & Zakynthos

Paxi

Paxi is the smallest of the Ionian islands. While Corfu, to the north, is a bustling tourist Mecca, Paxi prides itself on catering to the more discerning tourist interested in good food, beautiful scenery, and peaceful beaches. Paxi definitely has nothing like Corfu's Pink Palace!
Paxi is about 15 km long and 5 km wide, with a good road system. An energetic person could walk anywhere on the island. The coastline near the main town of Gaios has many secluded little beaches within easy walking distance. However, watch your feet, as sea urchins abound. Away from the coast, one can marvel at magnificent ancient olive groves.



The island of Anti Paxi is just two kilometers from Paxi and easily accessible by excursion boat. The two main beaches that the excursion boats pull into are the sandy Vrika beach and the pebbly Voutoumi beach. Both beaches have little tavernas to service them. If you get bored of just splashing in the water and tanning, you can explore the vine covered hillside that surrounds the beaches.

Paxi and Anti Paxi are off the beaten path and are good places to go when you wish to slow down and enjoy a good book while catching some rays on a secluded beach. There are several ways to reach Paxi, I took an excursion boat from Parga.

Zakynthos

Awesome beaches! Lonely Planet (the traveller's Bible) says it is the least attractive destination for independent travellers. I tend to disagree. Yes, some beaches are packed and some sections of the island are way, way over developed, but there are some truly spectacular sights and relatively untouched beaches if you take a look. Shipwreck Beach on the north western side of the island is one of the most amazing places I have ever seen. The water is a shade of blue that I have never seen before. It lies in a completely sheltered horseshoe bay, with a sunken ship on the sandy beach. Phenomenal!! Unfortunately, unless you are a skilled climber the beach is only accessable by boat.


A scooter is definitely the way to get around Zakynthos (and most islands). Based out of Zakynthos city we were able to easily get to all areas of the island. Some scooter rental agencies will require and International Drivers Licence.

Zakynthos' coastline is stunning. Cliffs drop straight down into the crystal clear water, and are pockmarked with little caves. Sparsely populated beaches can also be found if one has their own transportation and is willing to around a little bit.


Shipwreck Beach alone is enough to warrent a stop at Zakynthos. Having said that, there is so much more to see.